Width: 14" Top of Finished Sink, 10" Bottom of Finished Sink.
Depth: 10"
Sides have at least a 5? slope to ensure Mold removal from concrete.
Mold Use:
Watch videos of Mold Setup, Casting, and De-Molding/Removal on our .
A basic Sink Mold Instruction sheet is .
Mold Setup:
Rubber molds may have a little oil on them when you receive them, from our manufacturing process. Clean off any oil with a mild cleaner and paper towels. Once clean, apply Mold Release Wax. Lots of coats of wax will help get mold out easier! You may want to lightly sand the mold by hand with 200 or 400 grit sandpaper, to give it a little more surface to 'hold' the wax: To wax the mold, apply 5 coats of to the mold, lightly buffing between coats once it hazes.
Apply small amounts of silicone to the Mold's bottom, and set in place in your form. Allow silicone to dry.
Screws can be used to secure the Mold if necessary. Using screws of the appropriate length, screw through the bottom of the form, up into the bottom of the Sink Mold.
Run a smooth silicone bead around perimeter of the Sink Mold, where it meets the form base (using a tool such as our Caulking Ball Tool makes this process very clean and easy).
Apply a thin coat of to the Mold just prior to casting the concrete piece.
Concrete Casting:
Various methods can be used to cast the concrete piece. View our for tips on concrete mixes.
GFRC: Cement and fiberglass is sprayed on and hand packed into the form and around the Mold.
Wetcast: Oatmeal consistency concrete is placed in form and around the Mold and vibrated. A simple box should be built around the Sink Mold, to contain the concrete during this process.
Hand Packed: A drier concrete mix is hand packed into the form and around the Mold. A second step after de-molding will fill the voids with cement slurry, usually of a different coloring.
Any voids in the finished concrete can be filled using a .
Mix your own slurry by mixing Portland cement, , and water (or water/mix).
Mold Removal:
Size Chart
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